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******************************************* * SPECIAL PREVIEW EDITION * * Build Your Own PC Guidebook * * (c)1995 B.H. Dixon Ent, Inc. * * CS# 73743,3040 * * AOL: BHD Ent * ******************************************* *Special note from the author: My warmest greetings to all readers of this PC Building Guide! This is only a partial version of the original book. To obtain more information on the COMPLETE Book, you may contact me at the above email addresses. Thank you, and enjoy this special preview edition. Table of Contents INTRODUCTION CHAPTER ONE - A Little Background The Computer Trade Shows Computer Shows: Commonly asked questions Anatomy of a Clone CHAPTER TWO - The Shopping List Case with Power Supply Motherboard Simm Modules Hard Disks Floppy Drives IDE Input/Output Interface Card Video Adapter Card and Monitor Keyboard Mouse Modem Operating System Software Tool Kit Documentation System 1 - The Economy Model System 2 - Fast 486 DX2 System System 3 - PENTIUM Power Tower Multimedia Super System CHAPTER THREE - Putting It All Together Getting Organized A Word About Static Electricity Installing Simms on The Motherboard Setting Jumpers Installing The Motherboard Hard Disk Installation 5.25" Floppy Drive Installation (Drive A:) 3.5" Floppy Drive Installation (Drive B:) Installing the IDE Interface Card Installing the Video Card Internal Modem Installation Front Panel Wire Connections Final Preparation Prior to Power-On CHAPTER FOUR - The Moment of Truth Initial Power Up CMOS What? CHAPTER FIVE - Hard Disk Preparation Partitioning Using FDISK High Level Formatting Using FORMAT.COM Installation of the Operating System CHAPTER SIX - Care of Your Computer Power Requirements Power Cycling On/Off Avoiding Monitor Burn-In Cleaning Hard Disk De-fragmentation CHAPTER SEVEN - Don't Shoot That Computer, Troubleshoot It! Motherboard Toast, With or Without Butter? Computers Are Smart, But Make Terrible Dates It Just Sits There Lookin' At You Mom!!! It won't Stop Beepin' At Me! If Your Screen Says This, You're In Trouble If Your Screen Says This, It's Not So Bad Glossary INTRODUCTION Are you tired of all the computer advertising hype, the know-nothing salespeople, and all those classified ads run by people caught in time warps who think their outdated PC's are still worth what they paid for them? Would you like to get back at all the greedy computer shop owners who've tried to take advantage of your good nature by overcharging you for simple upgrades and components? Have you been discouraged by all the fancy books written on the subject of building a computer that were somewhat dated, long on technical computer jargon, and short on practical advice? If you answered yes to any of these questions, then you will understand why I had to write this book. Basically I have written the book I wish had been available when I was building my first system. My focus will be on making your experience as painless as possible by informing you of the pitfalls that I had to learn about the hard way. You will have the advantage of current information since this guidebook is updated with new developments as they occur. You will find a minimum of technical "computerese" and a maximum of practical, nuts & bolts knowledge. Best of all, this guidebook will show you how to take advantage of the current revolution in computer component marketing, namely the Computer Trade Shows, where prices keep going down every day. You will not need any previous experience with electronic assembly. There will be no soldering. All you will need is this book and a screwdriver. Let's get started! CHAPTER ONE - A Little Background Let's touch on a few basics before we start discussing our shopping list in detail. Chances are you already know a little about computers or you probably wouldn't have even considered building your own. Nevertheless I want to take some time now to make sure you are clear on the current situation in the world of IBM compatible computers. The Computer Trade Shows Computer Trade Shows or Computer Swaps as they are sometimes called have been gathering in popularity in recent years. This is a very positive development for computer consumers everywhere. Dealers have found that they can keep their overhead low and attract huge volumes of computer junkies with prices much lower than retail. Competition is high and prices on complete systems and components keep dropping. More good news is that the variety and cross- compatibility of components is excellent. There seems to be a real push at the computer shows to maintain a "KIT MENTALITY" with many manufacturers cooperating to supply their piece of the kit compatible with the other pieces. I have found quality to be good and when an occasional problem with a part has arisen I have never been refused a replacement. Most vendors at the shows have established shops that they maintain during the week and are not fly-by- niters. What all of this means to us is that it has never been easier to shop for components, build our own computers, and save a heap of money in the process. Who knows? You might even want to go into business for yourself building computer systems and selling them! Computer Shows: Commonly asked questions 1. How do I find out where and if there is a computer show in my area? Computer shops in your area can give you information. You can also check computer magazines or join a users group. COMPU-MART magazine is a good source for low cost mail-order computer parts/accessories if there are no computer shows in your area. COMPU-MART Ph.# is 800-864-1155 or 214- 238-1133. For info on the California Computer Shows, call 1-800-685-1400. 2. Should I bring cash, checks or credit cards to the Computer Show? Bring cash. Most vendors at the show do not take credit cards. Checks are fine except that most vendors will make you wait while they verify funds by cellular telephone. Also, it can be awkward to write a check sometimes while in a crowded environment and trying to hold on to several bags. 3. What is the best time of day to shop the Computer Shows? There are different schools of thought on this. Some think that if you wait until around 2:00 PM, you will have more bargaining leverage with a vendor since there may be an inclination to move leftover merchandise near the end of the day. The problem with this is that vendors come with only as much merchandise as will fit in their small trucks. Often they will run out of items they are offering at an especially good price. So I recommend that you arrive right when the show opens, usually around 10:00 A.M. You will also get a better parking spot which you will greatly appreciate as you carry that new monitor out to your car. 4. What are some good things to bring along? Bring along your shopping list and a pen to mark off items after each purchase. You might want to take a small dolly or hand cart if you don't want to carry anything heavy such as a monitor. Also take some shopping bags. Vendors often will run out of them. 5. What do I do if I need to return an item? Chances are you won't have to return anything. But just in case, always be sure that any sales receipt you get from a vendor has a legible phone number on it. I've not had a problem returning anything so far when I've needed to. Simply call the vendor from whom you purchased the item as soon as you've determined that it is most likely the problem. (This is of course after you have exhausted all the troubleshooting techniques discussed later in this book.) If the vendor is located far from you, then it may be possible to return the item by UPS or Parcel Post. However, it is not a bad idea to make sure you buy heavy objects from a vendor with a home base fairly close by. This way, if you do have a problem, an exchange will be much more convenient and less costly then sending a heavy item by UPS. Anatomy of a Clone You need to get a feel for clone anatomy so you may better understand the basic process of what you're building. Don't worry. As mentioned in the previous section, the design engineers are making our job easier all the time. The IBM clone today is a very modular device. Inside the System Unit Case (the box) is the brain of the computer, the Motherboard. (Note: each Motherboard comes with its own manual complete with diagrams, and at the front of the book there is a typical motherboard layout diagram for your reference.) On the Motherboard are slots that can be filled by Adapter cards. Adapter cards are simply circuit boards which allow various devices to work on your computer. Disk drives, CD Roms, Video monitors: these are all devices that will not work unless connected to a card in a slot on the Motherboard. These slots on the motherboard come in several types. The most common slots are ISA and Local Bus. Local Bus is further divided into either VESA or PCI types. Input/Output ports are the connectors on the back of the computer where you can plug in external devices such as printers. These ports are also located on cards which fit into the Motherboard slots. That is why the Motherboard is always fitted inside the case so that the adapter slots line up with the openings in the rear of the computer. To save space many cards are multiple purpose. For example a card which controls a disk drive might also have a port for a printer. Some devices such as Scanners have a card that you install on the Motherboard and then you plug the Scanner into the port on the back of the card. An Internal Modem is just a card with a phone jack built into it. Anyway you get the idea. Building a computer is just a matter of knowing what to plug into where. CHAPTER TWO - The Shopping List Before you can build anything you will need to decide on the kind of system you want to build, and what components you will need. Let's assume that one of the reasons for building your own computer is cost and that you want to start with a basic system. The beautiful thing about building your own computer is that you will be able to add to it piece by piece over time and avoid a lot of expense right away. However there are a few items you will not want to skimp on now, for purposes of maximum upgrade-ability later on. I will now present to you a detailing of each component required for a basic system. Case with Power Supply The case is simply the metal box where most of the components are installed. The most common way to buy a case is with the Power Supply already installed. I highly recommend that you purchase these two items as a single unit because sometimes it is difficult to match the mounting holes of a particular Power Supply with a given Case if purchased separately. This way it is already done for you. A design which has become recently popular and which I recommend is the Mini- Tower or Baby-Tower. Be sure that the Power Supply is at least 200 Watts, 300 Watts preferred. This should not be a problem since 200W is the standard for Power Supplies at present. 300 Watts gives you ample power with room to spare for adding a variety of devices later on . A desirable feature to look for is a removable side panel where the Motherboard is mounted (We will talk more about the Motherboard shortly). With this feature you can simply remove two screws in the side panel and remove it completely which makes the Motherboard mounting procedure much easier. Later on if you ever upgrade to another board this feature will allow you to avoid removing any of the disk drives in the process. **IMPORTANT - DO NOT BUY A CASE/POWER-SUPPLY THAT DOES NOT HAVE THE MAIN POWER SWITCH ALREADY PRE-WIRED!! The reason for this is that in my experience the wiring diagram written on the Power-Supply is often incorrect. Always have the dealer connect the wires for you if they are not already. If he will not, then buy it from someone else. There is always a dealer who will comply. Replacing a shorted switch is not expensive but is certainly a time-waster and a hassle. Motherboard Decisions, decisions! What kind of Motherboard should you get? The Motherboard is exactly what it sounds like. It is essentially the brain of your computer system. You will need to consider carefully what kind of computer you really want or need, balanced with what you want to spend. "How much should I spend?", you ask. This is perhaps very similar to asking a sports car dealer how much you should spend on one of his cars. He would probably answer you with another question. "How fast do you want to go?" With computers as well as sports cars, speed is money. At the end of this chapter you will find cost breakdowns of various systems using current Computer Show pricing. This should help you decide which way you want to go. Keep in mind that it depends a lot on what you will be using your computer for. It doesn't make much sense to buy a Ferrari for an occasional trip to the grocery store. However you will want a Motherboard that allows you to run the current generation of software so my recommendation is that you buy at least a 386SX Motherboard. Here is a list in order of slowest to fastest of Motherboard types defined by a specific class of CPU (Central Processing Unit) as follows: 386SX, 386DX, 486SX, 486DX, and THE PENTIUM (586). Each of these classes can be further broken down and rated by clock speed in units of Megahertz (MHz). The higher the clock speed in an individual class, the faster the CPU. However, don't be confused by mixing classes of CPU's. For example, a 33 MHz 386SX is far slower than a 386DX rated at the same 33 MHz clock speed. This has to do with the CPU architecture. Again going back to my favorite sports car analogy, consider which car you would bet on in a race: A four cylinder Miata or an eight cylinder Corvette? Even if you assume that the engines are running at exactly the same RPM, you'd better have your money on the Corvette. Simply put, a more powerful CPU equates to a more powerful engine driving your computer. If you're considering one of the 486 class Motherboards, there are a few things you should know. The only difference between a 486SX and a 486DX is that the DX has a Math Co-processor where the SX does not. (I will talk more about Math Co-processors at the end of this chapter.) Also, there is a socket on all 486 class Motherboards which allows you to insert a chip and upgrade either from a 486SX to a 486DX or simply from a 486DX to a faster 486DX. This is a good reason to spring for one of the 486 boards. However keep in mind that through this book there is nothing preventing you from making a major CPU upgrade by swapping out the entire Motherboard at some later date when either, A) Prices have come way down on the Motherboard you want or, B) The wolves at your door have greatly decreased their numbers! Regardless of which Motherboard you decide on, there are some characteristics you should look for. The more adapter slots the better. If you are unfamiliar with adapter slots, they are the long black slots on the Motherboard where adapter cards are inserted for various devices such as floppy drives, modems, video displays, etc. Six to seven slots is common. Eight is better. A nice feature which costs more is the existence of a special slot called a "Local Bus Slot" usually only available on higher end 486 boards. This special slot allows the use of a special "Local Bus Video Adapter" which greatly increases your video graphics display speed. Another nice feature is what's called a "Hardware Cache". This consists of special memory chips on the Motherboard dedicated to the sole purpose of "caching" or holding aside frequently accessed data so the CPU can get to it faster than if it had to retrieve it from a disk. Naturally the larger the cache the better. Simm Modules Adding Ram Memory to your computer is fairly simple because of Simm Modules. These consist of small circuit boards about the width of a business card but only about half an inch tall. Some Motherboards take the "30 pin" type but the newest boards take the "72 pin" variety. There are memory chips soldered onto these little circuit boards which give the module either a 1MB or a 4MB capacity (72 pin simms are 4MB or more). There are also different speed ratings for Simm Modules given as Nanoseconds (NS). The most common speed rating for 30 pin simms is 70NS, which is what I use in my system and will work fine in all 386 & above systems. If you are building a high end 486 or PENTIUM machine and you want to squeeze out the most performance possible, then ask the Motherboard supplier for the RAM memory they recommend. Some basic rules of thumb in memory purchasing are as follows: A. Simms are often sold at a price per Megabyte (MB), so, if the price is advertised at $30.00, this means one 4MB Simm costs $120.00. B. 1MB or 4MB modules are the optimum size to buy for most systems. Most Motherboards will accommodate up to eight of them which is enough Ram for all but the most complex applications. However, some boards require at least four Simms installed in order to work, so check your Motherboard manual or ask the motherboard dealer about the memory configuration before buying your Simms and if possible purchase your memory from the Motherboard vendor. C. Interleaved Memory is the scheme used on most motherboards for 30 pin memory. In this design, Simms must be installed by completely filling each bank and different sizes should not be mixed within the same bank. In other words if you start by installing 1MB Simms you must stick with that size when adding memory unless you are willing to replace all of the Simms in the bank with the larger 4MB size. However, since Motherboard design is constantly evolving, you should refer to your Motherboard manual as the final word on which type of memory to use and how it should be installed in order to work properly. All Motherboard manuals are very specific in this area. D. Faster Ram memory is always better and can always replace slower memory. The rating in nanoseconds refers to access time which means a lower number is faster. It is okay to mix different speed chips as long as you replace slower chips with faster ones. This is an often misunderstood area and you may get into arguments with your computer buddies about it. However, I assure you it is correct. Remember, it is memory size of the chips which you should not mix, speed mixing is OK. Hard Disks Hard Disks are first categorized by the type of controller standard they use. By far the most common Hard Disk type available at the shows is the IDE type, (Integrated drive electronics), and for very good reason. They are the most cost effective, and the easiest to install. All the major brands produce excellent quality IDE drives in varying capacities. Some of the major brand names to look for are: Seagate, Maxtor, and Conner. Capacities are referred to in MB's and here you have another area where you will have to make a decision largely based on cost. Bigger is definitely better. There is no question about that. Again, you can refer to the end of this chapter to go over the cost differences involved. My standard recommendation right now is to get the best price you can on any major name IDE drive in the 540 MB range or larger. Going anything lower than 540MB doesn't make much sense these days since the difference between a 450MB and a 540MB is about $50. Also, a lot of software coming out is very complex and takes up more space than ever before. Of course if cost is the primary factor overriding all else then you could go with a smaller capacity now and simply replace it as costs come down in the future. **IMPORTANT - BE SURE TO GET THE HARD DISK SETUP PARAMETERS FROM THE DEALER. YOU WILL NEED THESE WHEN YOU FIRST TURN ON YOUR NEWLY BUILT COMPUTER FOR THE FIRST TIME. Floppy Drives Basically, there are two types of floppy drives to choose from: 3.5" Floppy Drives, and 5.25" Floppy Drives. The only major decision you need to make is whether you want one Floppy Drive or two. If you only want to spend the money on one Floppy right now then get a 3.5". The 3.5" floppy drive is higher capacity and more durable. The only reason to go with a 5.25" floppy drive is to stay compatible with the older computers. It is worth considering the fact that even though the 3.5" is the popularly recognized superior because of its convenient size and higher capacity diskettes, the 5.25" is still around in great numbers. Some software still comes on 5.25" diskettes and there are still a lot of older machines out there which only use 5.25". It may benefit you to stay compatible with them. If you wish to do this, install a 5.25" and a 3.5" drive and you will have the best of both worlds. **IMPORTANT - DO NOT GET A LOW DENSITY FLOPPY DRIVE. These drives are obsolete but are still sold. These low density drives only take low density disks and cost literally no more than four or five dollars less! Look for capacities of 1.2MB and 1.44MB for 5.25" and 3.5" Floppy Drives respectively, as these are the High Density type. An interesting product of note is the combination of the 5.25" and 3.5" Floppy in one single unit. This way you only use one drive bay. The downside is of course the need to replace both Floppies if one unit fails. IDE Input/Output Interface Card This card, sometimes called a Super IDE I/O interface, goes in a slot on the Motherboard and connects via cables to your IDE Hard Disk and Floppy Drives. It also contains two parallel ports, two serial ports, and a joystick port. There are many vendors at the Computer Show who carry these cards and they are very inexpensive. If you buy a Motherboard with VESA or PCI Local bus then ask the vendor for the IDE I/O interface for the the local bus standard used by your motherboard. Video Adapter Card and Monitor More Decisions! If you want to keep the cost down I recommend going with an inexpensive used Monochrome monitor. In my area here in Southern California we have a publication called The Recycler. Inside there is a special section for used computer equipment and you can find perfectly good Monochrome monitors for around $30 or less. Monochrome adapter cards are very inexpensive as well for around $15. Compare this with costs in the $300 range for a color monitor and card. Once upon a time, I used to jokingly tell people that color monitors were only for two kinds of people: dummies and geniuses. Dummies, because people who played video games all day need color monitors, and geniuses because they were the ones using all the fancy computer aided design software requiring color. Everyone in between could get by with Monochrome! Well this isn't exactly true anymore. Serious software for normal people does require a VGA color display system. The bottom line is: If you want to run the latest software, you better go with SVGA (Super Video Graphics Array). Let's talk about these two right now. SVGA is the higher resolution video scheme, and if you've decided on the high road over Monochrome, there is not enough difference in overall cost to start skimping now. The higher resolution is well worth the few dollars more. I recommend at least a .28 Dot Pitch 14" SVGA Monitor. (The smaller the Dot Pitch number the better) In order to display SVGA quality graphics you not only need an SVGA Monitor but a Video Adapter Card which supports SVGA. You want to look for a SVGA card with 1MB of Video Ram on board. This will allow you to display higher resolutions and more colors. You might also check out some of the SVGA cards called Accelerators. These cards have microprocessors which speed up color graphics display. For you big spenders who plan to purchase one of the high end 486 or Pentium Motherboards with Local Bus, you'll want to get a special SVGA card designed to take advantage of the Local Bus slot. Big spenders might also consider a 15" or larger monitor as well. Keyboard The most surprising thing to my students learning to build computers is the low prices on keyboards. At $16 to $30 it seems like the days of worrying about spilling that cup of coffee into the keys are over! All the keyboards sold at the show are the Enhanced-101 type which have a numeric keypad and more function keys than the original IBM PC keyboards. All I recommend on selecting a keyboard is that you try it out and make sure you like the feel. Other than that It's pretty hard to go wrong. Mouse A Mouse is pretty standard on a PC now and a basic one is very inexpensive at around $8 to $10. The most common type is called a Microsoft Compatible Serial Mouse, which simply means that you plug it into one of the serial ports on your IDE I/O card. You can spend a little more and get a fancier mouse. There are some that have a higher resolution than others which means you can do finer work with them such as very fine drawing. Some are the Trackball type which require less desktop space to use (It's like an upside-down mouse). The best thing you can do is try out different types of mice and see which you prefer. Modem A Modem is needed if you want to hook up to on-line services right away such as Prodigy or Compuserve. Modems are rated by BPS (Bits Per Second). The higher the number the faster the modem. There are external and internal modems but the internal is less expensive and as easy to install as any other adapter card. A popular type of modem selling at the shows is the Send/Receive Fax Modem. This type of modem is great because for not much more money you can have a modem and turn your computer into a fax machine as well. When you purchase a modem, there will be software included. Fax/Modems today come with pretty nice Windows software packages. However, you may want to shop for a higher quality Modem/Faxmodem software that meets your preference. Read software reviews or ask your software dealer for recommendations. Operating System Software You will not be able to operate your computer after you've built it unless you have purchased an operating system software package. I suggest that you obtain a copy of DOS version at least 5.0 or later. You can get it from the Computer Show or from your local software dealer. Ask the dealer for an installable package. Some packages are merely upgrades and require that you already have an earlier version of DOS already installed on your computer. This scheme obviously won't work for you if this is your first and only computer. The thing that you absolutely need in order to complete your Hard Disk preparation at the end of assembly, is a System Disk. The System Disk will allow you to start your system prior to the preparation of the Hard Disk. On this System Disk you should also have the DOS program files called FORMAT.COM and FDISK.COM. There will be detailed explanations of what to do with this disk later in the chapter entitled Hard Disk Preparation. For now, you simply need to know what to ask your software dealer for. MS DOS 6.22 is currently popular. Disk 1 of some packages serves as a system disk as well as a setup disk. If you have some experience with DOS already then you are probably familiar with the terms I have just mentioned and know how to make your own System Disk using a friend's system. Otherwise, you will need to consult with your software dealer. Although not absolutely necessary, it would not be a bad idea to take a DOS class or read a book on DOS before beginning this project. Tool Kit At most shows, if you look around, you may find a small tool kit especially made for work on computers. These kits are very inexpensive for around $10 and include nutdrivers, screwdrivers, and tools for extracting small parts from tight areas where they can easily be dropped during the assembly process. I still stick to my statement in the introduction that all you really need is a screwdriver to complete this project. However it may be worth your while to pick up one of these kits if you see one. They are well worth the few dollars extra. Documentation The three most important things to remember when shopping for computer parts are: DOCUMENTATION! DOCUMENTATION! DOCUMENTATION! Be sure to get some sort of manual and a receipt for everything you buy. There are only a couple of exceptions where a manual is not that important. Keyboards don't normally require a manual and manuals generally aren't supplied with Floppy Drives or Hard Disks, although when they are, it's always nice. However, as mentioned in the section on Hard Disks, don't walk away without getting the Hard Disk setup parameters information sheet. Also, which works just as well, sometimes there is a manufacturer "800" number to call for obtaining the necessary Hard Disk information. **** Cost Analysis Section **** *Cost Analysis System 1 - The Economy Model: (Based on recent magazine ads) Baby Tower Case w/200W Power Supply .............................$35.00 Motherboard: 386DX-40 MHZ w/128k cache ISA.......................50.00 Ram Simm Modules, 4 MB (30 pin 70NS) ............................140.00 Hard Disk: Maxtor 540MB IDE ....................................195.00 IDE Interface I/O Card ISA .......................................13.00 Keyboard .........................................................16.00 Mouse: Microsoft compat serial ..................................10.00 Trident Video Card: SVGA ISA 1MB Dram ...........................49.00 Monitor: SVGA .28DP interlaced .................................179.00 Teac 3.5" Floppy Drive 1.44MB ....................................35.00 TOTAL ...................$722.00 *Cost Analysis System 2 - Fast 486 DX2 System: Baby Tower Case w/250W Power Supply .............................$59.00 Motherboard: 486DX-66 MHZ w/256k cache ISA + VL Local Bus.......169.00 Ram Simm Modules, 8 MB (72 pin 70NS) ............................360.00 Hard Disk: Maxtor 560MB IDE ....................................199.00 IDE Interface I/O Card VLB .......................................25.00 Keyboard .........................................................16.00 Mouse: Microsoft compat serial ..................................10.00 Trident Local Bus Video Card: SVGA VLB 1MB Vram .................69.00 Monitor: SVGA .28DP interlaced .................................179.00 Teac 3.5" Floppy Drive 1.44MB ....................................35.00 Fax/Voicemail/Modem 14.4 Internal ................................65.00 TOTAL ..................$1186.00 *Cost Analysis System 3 - Pentium Power Tower Multimedia System: Mid Tower Case w/300W Power Supply ..............................$99.00 Motherboard: Pentium-60 MHZ w/256k cache PCI Local Bus..........600.00 Ram Simm Modules, 16 MB (72 pin 70NS) ...........................360.00 Hard Disk: Western Digital 1.08 Gigibyte IDE ...................399.00 IDE Interface I/O Card PCI Fast Serial Port ......................69.00 Keyboard .........................................................16.00 Mouse: Microsoft compat serial ..................................10.00 Diamond Stealth 64 bit PCI 2MB Vram Graphics Card................279.00 Monitor: SVGA 15" Flat Non-Int .................................299.00 Teac 3.5" Floppy Drive 1.44MB ....................................35.00 U.S. Robotics 28.8 Fax/Modem Internal ...........................199.00 Multimedia Kit, 4X CD-Rom, Soundblaster Sound Cd, Speakers ......299.00 TOTAL ..................$2664.00 CHAPTER THREE - Putting It All Together Getting Organized Well, if everything is going according to plan, you should be staring at a large pile of computer component-filled bags sitting on your kitchen table. The first thing to do is get organized. Now is a good time to gather up all your receipts and documentation and put them into a well marked folder or envelope. After that you should carefully unpack each component and set them aside. Select a well lit work area with plenty of room . . . . . . . ****************** END OF PREVIEW EDITION ******************* This is all I have included in the Preview Edition. If you like what you read and would like to see more, please take advantage of the special savings offer. An order form has been included at the beginning if this document for your convenience. Best Regards, Bruce Dixon B.H. Dixon Enterprises, Inc.